Four climbers have died and another six are feared missing after an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, one of the world’s highest mountains.
Two of the four bodies have been identified, while authorities are in the process of identifying the other two, according to the tourism minister for region of Gilgit Balistan.
Searches began for a ten-member international mountaineering team led by renowned Nepal-born climber Nirmal Purja after reports an avalanche hit on Thursday on the 8,047-metre (26,400 ft) peak in the Karakoram range.
An American, a Chinese national, a Pakistani, an Omani and six Nepalis are said to be part of the climbing group, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Purja, the expedition leader, is known for climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre plus mountains in just over six months in 2019.
Earlier on Friday, the Alpine Club said two rescue helicopters had been sent by the Pakistan army, carrying rescue personnel and additional specialised equipment to support the rescue operation.
In a separate statement, the Alpine Club said it had been “in constant contact” with the authorities to ensure that “all available resources are mobilised at the earliest opportunity”.
“The Club prays for the safety and successful rescue of all the climbers and stands in solidarity with their families and the international mountaineering community during this difficult time,” it added.
Purja joined the British Army in 2003 and joined the Special Boat Service – the special forces unit of the Royal Navy – in 2009.
He went to Everest Base Camp in 2012, and instead of returning to Kathmandu, he summitted the 6,119m Lobuche East mountain in Nepal – his first peak.
Climbing alongside Purja was American Mallory Geis. In mid-June, she had posted on social media that she had new boots ready for what she called “her first big kid climbing expedition in Pakistan”.
She is tagged in a post from a travel company, Moving Mountains. The post says that Mallory would be with Sohail Saki – a Pakistani national who is also listed among the missing.
This would be his last 8,000m peak in Pakistan, and Mallory’s first attempt, the social media post added.
Besides Purja, Saki and Geis, there are a few other significant names among the missing climbers, including Pur Bahadur Gurung – also known as Yukta – and Kili Pemba Sherpa.
Yukta is certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA), and is very close to completing the 14 peaks challenge, where climbers attempt to summit the world’s 14 mountains that rise at least 8,000m above sea level.
Kili Pemba has so far summited Everest 15 times. In 2021 he was a member of a historic K2 winter expedition, along with several Nepali climbers including Nirmal Purja.
Pemba is also the guide who led double amputee Xia Boyu to summit Everest in 2018. Xia, a Chinese climber, had lost both legs decades earlier while attempting to reach Everest’s summit.
Broad Peak is regarded as one of the more challenging mountains for expeditions, and is ranked as the world’s 12th highest peak.
The first successful ascent of Broad Peak was in 1957, when a four-member Austrian expedition reached the summit.
Since then, many more have climbed the 8,051m (26,414 ft) peak. And dozens have lost their lives to the mountain.
2013 marked one of Broad Peak’s deadliest years, with at least six fatalities recorded.
