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In the summer, Sicily welcomes an influx of tourists who arrive with the intention of living out a main-character moment (inspired by The White Lotus, no doubt) in Taormina, tracing the footsteps of ancient civilization in Agrigento, and scrambling up the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. Nowhere in the first-time-to-Sicily starter pack will you find a mention of Favignana—at least that was the case until Christopher Nolan’s star-studded adaptation of The Odyssey hit theaters around the globe this summer.
Located just 11 miles off Sicily’s northwest coast, Favignana is often theorized to be the “island full of wonders” in Homer’s epic. While it’s tough to confirm without asking the ancient Greek poet himself (an impossible feat, I’m afraid), looking around at the transparent water and rugged stone cliffs, it’s easy to see why he would have been so deeply inspired by the soul-stirring beauty of this place. And apparently, one of Hollywood’s greatest filmmakers, alongside brilliant production designer Ruth De Jong, having taken one glance at the idyllic island, agreed. Much of the on-screen footage depicting Ithaca was actually filmed on Favignana, including scenes shot at Castello di Santa Caterina, Cala Rossa, and Cala Azzurra.
Despite proximity to mainland Sicily—it’s a 30-minute hydrofoil ride from the port city of Trapani—the Mediterranean jewel feels blissfully far removed. While the largest of the Egadi Islands, it’s small by comparison to Sicily, and even its high-profile neighbors further afield in the Bay of Naples. In Favignana, time seems to stand still, and development has yet to capitalize on the quietude. There aren’t designer stores, high-rise hotels, or Instagram-famous restaurants with lengthy waitlists.
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The preferred mode of transportation is bicycles. Some folks rent a scooter. You’ll see a few cars (mostly locals and travelers who need a shaded, air-conditioned way to get around). Two feet work well, too. Speaking from experience, you can walk for 25 minutes in the middle of the day in late June without seeing another soul. Though, realistically, that’s because everyone is at the beach or, equally enviably, taking a riposo. The port town remains quiet until the evenings when visitors and locals come to amble around the cobbles and dine on fresh-caught tuna at the restaurants.
For travelers nostalgic for the days before algorithms sent the masses to the same beautiful places in search of the perfect souvenir photo, Favignana feels like a throwback, with unspoiled beauty, a relaxed rhythm, and enduring tuna-fishing traditions. While I’m not sure anywhere quite qualifies as a best-kept secret anymore, the idyllic island comes remarkably close—or, rather, it did until Google searches for Favignana surged this summer. That’s not to say it’s overrun with tourists, or will be anytime soon. But its days as a hidden gem are seemingly behind it.
