Born in Buenos Aires, Hernan Diaz moved to Stockholm at age two after the 1976 military coup, only returning when democracy was reestablished seven years later. “All my childhood memories are in Swedish, a language that I still speak fluently,” he says. “Those sunlit summer midnights and pitch-black winter mornings shaped me in decisive ways. I also read my first books in Swedish, which has made me nostalgic for everything related to Astrid Lindgren. My parents owned a beautiful country house where, supposedly, the Beatles found refuge during their Swedish tour—I’m not sure this is true, but have no intention of debunking the family myth.”
The author’s Pulitzer Prize–winning novel Trust is being adapted as a Netflix series starring and executive-produced by Kate Winslet. He’s also an executive producer, along with writer/director Todd Haynes. His first novel, In the Distance, was a finalist for the Pulitzer, and his latest, Ply (Riverheard), set in the future, comes out today. “Swedish was my first literary language as a child, and why I ended up somewhat spontaneously acquiring English in my teens,” Diaz says. “Being surrounded by the beautiful music of Scandinavian vowels and the transparency of its syntax is always a source of immense joy.”
He keeps up to date with Sweden’s literary scene, has friends and family there, and tries to visit Stockholm every year. “Despite having spent most of my life in New York,” he says, “I consider myself to be—in limited but decisive ways—part Swedish.”
Below, his recs for his adopted city. May they bring you immense joy.
Hernan Diaz in front of the Rival HotelPhoto: Courtesy Hernan Diaz
Best time to visit, weather-wise: Summers are famously glorious. The light. That watery blue sky… Most European countries shut down in August, but Swedes tend to take July off, which makes this my favorite month to visit. Everyone is just so happy and relaxed.
Favorite hotel: For the last few years, I’ve consistently stayed at Rival, owned by ABBA’s own Benny Andersson. It’s right on Mariatorget, a lovely square surrounded by excellent coffee shops, restaurants, a natural wine bar, and bookshops. Make sure to get a room with a balcony for private hipster-gazing with a cocktail. But Rival now has a…rival. The rooms at Stockholm’s Stadshotell (formerly a women’s shelter) are exquisite, lovely examples of soothing Scandinavian minimalism. The restaurant is fabulous.
Best restaurant: Nothing beats Prinsen for old-school charm. Very Swedish menu—herring, prawns, biff Rydberg. During my last trip, I looked for the best cod in town. They have it. I had dinner there so many times that one of the servers gave me the beautiful enamel pin they wear on their chic uniforms.
