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The seven-seat chef’s counter appears to be like into the kitchen correct.

Photograph: Justin De Souza

It speaks volumes that the kitchen takes up nearly a 3rd of the restaurant. There are, remarkably, solely 35 seats obtainable right here. Twenty-eight are unfold throughout eight tables on the bottom ground and solely obtainable to order through cellphone, whereas upstairs, on the chef’s counter, seven have been put aside for walk-ins. Naturally, no expense has been spared in relation to the décor; even the lighting has been fastidiously put in in order to not forged shadows on tables, whereas the serving station has been carved in Italy from a 1,800kg piece of Devon stone, and a hand-painted mosaic impressed by the works of Guido Mocafico adorns the ground upstairs. Jayasekara and Jefferies’s joint masterpiece, nevertheless, may nicely be the 14-seat personal eating room, full with gold latticework and a Saracen fire.

As for The Cocochine’s menu: it will likely be ingredient-led and served à la carte, with a single service every for lunch and dinner. Tellingly, Jayasekara toured greater than 25 international locations to arrange his community of suppliers: assume reindeer and cloudberries from Norway; single-origin chocolate through a Suffolk specialist; tuna and mirin from Tokyo; and coconut cream from—the place else?—Sri Lanka. “Each dish might be a signature dish,” Jayasekara tells me once I ask if there’s any merchandise on the menu that he’s significantly enthusiastic about, though he admits to a sure fondness for a dessert juxtaposing caviar and chocolate, which he considers a revelatory pairing. “A profitable restaurant is all the time a query of concord – when it comes to substances, when it comes to companions, when it comes to suppliers,” he muses. “Again of home and entrance of home. When all of these come collectively, you could have a incredible marriage. In any other case, it’s a divorce each night time.”

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