After weeks of infinite grey drizzle in London (however what’s new about that), it was a tonic to step into Duro Olowu’s colourful world on a very gloomy Tuesday afternoon. Seated inside a pal’s flat inside a historic Chelsea condo block, and with the blazing colours of an summary Marina Adams portray as a backdrop, Olowu was able to unveil his fall assortment in his personal, inimitable fashion. Particularly, with a pair of fashions parading his newest set of maximalist sartorial confections via the lounge, as Olowu himself supplied a operating commentary.
Besides, this time round, Olowu’s start line wasn’t a movie or a guide (because it usually is) however somewhat, a temper. Whereas there have been nonetheless loads of flashes of his signature eye-popping prints, the print that recurred most was certainly one of multi-colored stripes, which Olowu intentionally desaturated via a course of he in comparison with color-grading a film; extra particularly, he referenced the thought of taking the Technicolor of Powell and Pressburger’s The Purple Sneakers and dialing it again to one thing extra muted. “I didn’t need it to really feel too loud,” Olowu stated. “It’s about ease and self-assurance.”
This care and precision—and ease—was seen within the meticulous building of each piece: ’50s-inspired leopard print automobile coats with loads of satisfying swish; a striped shawl-collar shirt and pleated skirt set, fitted to make sure each stripe lined up completely, even throughout the cinched waist; coats reduce from a feather-light, textured silk rayon to double up as a costume in the summertime; peasant sleeve robes reduce from a riot of artfully clashing patterns, seamed collectively from classic Italian materials and prints of Olowu’s personal design. Maybe essentially the most shocking new entry to Olowu’s canon? Hoodies—seamed collectively from eye-popping combos of floral crushed velvets and shimmering iridescent brocades.
However as at all times, the satan was within the particulars; from the elegant drape of a skirt, to the light pointing-up of the shoulders on a form-fitting costume that balanced out the nipped-in waist. “It’s about utilizing quantity—to not cowl issues up, however to intensify,” Olowu famous. His eye for colour and print will at all times dazzle, nevertheless it’s nonetheless these considerate subtleties that shine brightest.
