Copenhagen-based brothers Julius and Victor Juul of Heliot Emil stay dedicated to Paris whereas rethinking their model’s relationship to the catwalk. For fall, they hosted a pop-up/exhibition within the capital with a purpose to draw consideration to their second collaboration with Alpinestars, an Italian firm targeted on motor sports activities and materials innovation. This time round, the partnership took two varieties, Jules (re)made co-signed items utilizing Alpinestars supplies in addition to crafting wearable sculptures (two of that are seen within the lookbook) from deployed airbags that safeguarded precise riders. What the designer needed to underline with the latter wasn’t solely Alpinestars’s technical aptitude however, as he stated on a name, “that garments can also make a distinction in a really literal method for folks; you can truly save lives by innovating inside the garment business.” In different phrases, trend isn’t as frivolous because it generally seems to be.
Heliot Emil’s aesthetic is something however ornamental; utilitarian is extra Julius’s vibe. And whereas there are generally Langian components at play right here, the designer’s tackle futurism, to his credit score, is by no means retro. He’s beforehand used 3D know-how to print footwear, experimented with AI design, and for fall included a Shieldex material that blocks radiation, together with from a cellular phone, into some items. This concept of defending synced properly with the gathering’s two takes on safety. There was the hard-edged defensive method, and a softer extra embracing kind. Alpinestars supplies and a metal-infused material that holds any form you make with it spoke to the previous; clothes in cashmere, mohair (used for the outer shell of a puffer), silk, and alpaca, the latter. Straps wrapped comfortingly across the physique after which fluttered free. A pair of suede trousers for girls had riveted panels of pony hair; they have been a pleasant various to jeans. The outerwear was the standout. Julius’s focus this season was much less on ahead motion by way of silhouettes and extra on upgrading and softening fabrications. The Dune adjoining styling (the lookbook was photographed in a Danish limestone quarry) was apt and well timed.
