Do the cosiest areas have the perfect meals? When requested in regards to the must-visit spots within the metropolis, many will title a hole-in-the-wall joint that has been round for many years. Others might have a comfortable spot for a newer discovery. Certainly, there will be one thing extremely satisfying about discovering a brand new foodie nook in a bustling a part of the town. We felt the identical after a current eating expertise. In Mumbai, few different neighbourhoods are as abuzz because the Khar-Bandra west stretch. Prior to now few years, the localities round Pali Hill have change into floor zero for a wide range of culinary ventures. Considered one of them is Kari Apla, which opened in the direction of the tip of 2023.
Kari Apla is helmed by Cooks Ebaani Tewari and Mathew Varghese. The duo have drawn from the richness of their houses and historical past to conceptualise their collectively owned restaurant. Aside from her expertise within the kitchens of Taj Lands Finish and Bastian, Chef Ebaani brings influences from Maharashtra, Karnataka, Goa, and Andhra Pradesh to the desk. Chef Mathew, a Keralite, channels his ardour for the normal elements and strategies of the area. He has labored at a number of Taj lodge eating places throughout the nation and was additionally a part of the opening group at Comorin in Gurgaon. The meals at Kari Apla traces the tangent of their childhood {and professional} journeys. The 2 phrases within the title are additionally a nod to their heritage: “Kari” is derived from “Kariveppila” (or curry leaves in Malayalam) and “Apla” interprets to “our” in Marathi.
Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
The 20-seater house manages to steadiness its practicalities and attraction successfully. The restaurant is cosy however would not really feel cramped. The open kitchen setting exudes heat, however not actually. As we take our seats on the counter inside, Chef Mathew explains that the kitchen has been purposefully designed to maintain the warmth, scent and smoke away from the diners. “Having such a setting permits us to benefit from the house and in addition permits us to work together with friends extra,” he provides. Each member of the workers, together with the chef-owners, is concerned in all service actions. Whereas getting to look at cooks at work shouldn’t be precisely a novelty, the character of the expertise at Kari Apla is sort of homely.
Just like the house, the menu is an clever curation quite than an expansive imposition. We dig into the Avocado Thecha first, scooping it up with crisp Sindhi-inspired Batata Papad. The creamy avocado combats the extra fiery side of the thecha. However we might describe it as a fusion quite than a compromise. In any case, who knew Maharashtrian-style guac and chips may truly style so good?
Kadala Curry Hummus. Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
There’s one other chip-and-dip-combo on the menu, which takes the experimentation up a notch. The Kadala Curry Hummus with Chilli Crisp, Fennel and Coriander Seed Lavash is sort of a mouthful – and we’re not simply speaking in regards to the title. Turning a beloved curry into hummus was a daring step, however we had been greater than satisfied. The sleek but spicy unfold was appropriately fragrant. We loved the added crunch supplied by the chana jhor. Among the many vegetarian appetisers, we additionally favored the Jackfruit and Peanut Cutlets, served with coconut chutney.
Suriani Prawns. Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
The cooks continued to attract us in with comforting home-style dishes, such because the Suriani Prawns. This dish has been impressed by Chef Mathew’s Syrian Christian household recipes. We additionally advocate the Mangalorean Kori Sukka, served with mini rice flour and coconut bhakris. We have tasted (and liked) spicier sukka dishes. Whereas this one was not as pungent, it nonetheless did justice to the layers of flavours. We additionally favored the Hyderabadi Mutton Haleem and do-it-yourself pav. The bread was toasted in a particular mint and lemon-flavoured butter.
There isn’t any alcohol served at Kari Apla. We paired our meals with rejuvenating Home Sodas. The kokum one complemented the non-veg dishes particularly nicely. The Chilli Jackfruit soda was superbly balanced, with only a small trace of warmth hitting your palette on the finish. Cold and hot chocolate and coffee-based drinks can be found too.
Kerala Fried Rooster. Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
As we ate, we heard the workers calling to one another for one more serving of “KFC”. As we watched them put together contemporary items of Kerala Fried Rooster, we needed to ask to style some. In any case, the dish was (actually) simply inside attain and appeared too crisp to withstand. Diners selecting the indoor seating, beware – comparable temptations might befall you.
Chennai Omelette Moilee. Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
The primary course choices are restricted however scrumptious. There are 5 “bowls”, of which three function curry and rice. The one rice exception is Moilee served with Vattayappam. For the uninitiated, this can be a evenly candy, spongy accompaniment made by steaming appam batter. The Moilee at Kari Apla would not have solely the same old vegetable or fish (prawn) variations. There’s additionally the Chennai Omelette. The cooks inform us that they’d fallen in love with this egg variation of the Moilee at an iconic restaurant within the southern metropolis. Two bites had been all we would have liked to grasp their adoration. The fluffy omelette was bursting with the moilee sauce, because the egg is extra absorbent than fish. If the slight sweetness of the vattayappam is to not your style, scoop up the moilee with the scallion chilli parotta.
In case you are craving some good previous fish curry rice, do not hesitate to pick the Karwari Prawn Curry with steamed Ambemohar Rice. The tangy, coconut-milk-based curry was barely just like Goan sorak. Once more, the cooks delighted us with their delicate refinement of a home-style delicacy.
Tender Coconut Pudding. Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
The spectacular streak continued until the tip. The Tender Coconut Pudding right here redefines what a minimalistic dessert may very well be. It combines coconut milk and flesh (malai) to make a naturally candy dish that can be lactose-free. You probably have the inclination (and tummy house) for one thing extra indulgent, do not miss the Heat Banana Bread with Filter Espresso Ice Cream. The mix is impressed by Chef Mathew’s reminiscences of hawkers promoting banana fritters and filter espresso on prepare rides in Kerala. The ice cream retains among the hallmark grittiness of the espresso and the bitter undertones. It’s a worthy deal with by itself. However the banana bread ingeniously provides texture and heat. It is a dessert price returning for.
Heat Banana Bread with Filter Espresso Ice Cream. Photograph Credit score: Kari Apla
As we wrapped up our meal, different orders continued to take form earlier than our eyes. On one dessert plate, we noticed Chef Ebaani use icing to put in writing, “You are Useless To Us”. Noticing our startled seems, she shortly supplied context. “It is the farewell dinner for one of many members of the group seated exterior,” she clarified. As we joined her in laughing on the caption, she admitted, “I’ve by no means had such a request earlier than!” The incident epitomised our expertise of eating at Kari Apla. Right here, you’ll be able to take pleasure in laughs with the cooks and the lip-smacking consolation meals they craft in entrance of you. Like the various dichotomies that characterise this restaurant, it’s a successful mixture.
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