Ten years after making his runway debut, Leandro Cano returned to his origins. For his fall 2024 proposal, titled Menú, the designer went again to the identical moodboard he had made for his first assortment. “In Buffet, my first assortment, there was a bit little bit of every part,” he mentioned on the automobile park in Madrid’s metropolis middle the place the present was held. “For fall, I’ve been streamlining and distilling the designs—it nonetheless shares a few of the similar colours, shapes, and ideas as that first assortment, however now every part is extra mature and with a extra worldwide perspective.”
The Jaén-born designer likes taking a look at historic figures to reinterpret them by his personal off-kilter lens; to wit, a toile de jouy print options the Spanish king Philip II and his spouse Mary Tudor, using a bike and hanging out at a fuel station, respectively. “I needed to interrupt up with the bucolic origins of the print and provides it a a lot tougher contact,” he defined. The print additionally includes a nod to his grandfather, who was a cab driver, and his Seat 1500. “In that automobile, I dreamt a thousand occasions about what I might do for a residing sooner or later.”
Cano additionally returned to the intense volumes of his beginnings, updating them by a brand new form. “Now we have all the time made them spherical and natural, and this time we went for a geometrical high quality. They’re extra architectural,” he mentioned. He additionally took the chance to discover black, a shade he hadn’t used till now. “I’ve a reasonably love-hate relationship with black, however now I really feel very snug sporting it,” he mirrored. Key materials included nappa leathers, wools, and jacquards. True to his method of conceiving style, Cano proposed strategies equivalent to macramé or crochet, with a knitting sample he discovered on a pillow that belonged to his grandmother, forgotten for years in a drawer.
