MarquesâAlmeidaâs Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have long been preoccupied with youth. This season, as the duo returned to East London, they examined the passing of time and the idea of growing up. The casting featured models that walked the brandâs early London shows, now in their thirties or older. Some walked alongside their children, sporting the brandâs successful kids line. The designersâ two young daughters, Maria and Alice, also walked the runway, accompanied by long-time models for the brand. âWe let the children choose what they wore,â the designers said.
The result was a mix up of printed jersey and the usual â90s denim with more brocade, tiered, ruffled skirts and satin peplums, and sheer gowns and skirting with a sparse, floral metallic print.
âIt was really funny because the starting point for us was always the â90s. We got stuck in the youth idea, but this time we had a look at the clothes on people of different ages and they made so much more sense,â Marques explained backstage. âOf all the harmful stereotypes weâve fought hard against in our [work and casting], age is something weâve overlooked, but itâs a natural progression. We just want to keep learning about these things and being more inclusive.â
It was translated into the clothes. The designers re-examined who the MarquesâAlmeida woman is, playing with new silhouettes and textures. âWe went places that were taboo for MarquesâAlmeida, using words like âelegantâ, and including big satin shapes and embroidery,â Marques said. That said, elegance is still a scary word. Almeida added, âItâs elegantâin a cool way.â
