As a small business located right at the intersection of Nolita and the Lower East Side, Snow Xue Gao holds one of the most covetable retail spots downtown. Not only are hundreds of people passing by her store every day, she’s next to Supreme, with its endless parade of hypebeasts stopping to take photos in front of its iconic graffitied wall. But unlike the slew of streetwear brands and small boutiques that make up the radius of the area, Gao’s customer base is a bit more niche. Perhaps that’s why the designer seemingly decided to take some inspiration from her neighbors this season.

For Gao, this meant starting with a base of the classic New York uniform: wool coat, sneakers, and Yankees hat, and adding touches of the Snow Xue Gao DNA, like colorful floral blouses and plaid prints. Unfortunately, this risky move, taking a ride to the streetwear side, resulted in a look that often felt overwhelming and mismatched.

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