What Are the Most Effective Peptides for Skin?

Unlike some ingredients that have a singular focus—like hyaluronic acid to hydrate, for example—peptides contain multitudes. Peptide skin-care products have the unique ability to target a host of skin concerns, from sagging to an impaired skin barrier, in part because there are so many different types of peptides.

Vogue’s Favorite Peptides for Every Skin Concern:

For a bit of context, peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as messengers between skin cells. That allows them to orchestrate and carry out a variety of functions.

But that’s where their similarities end. “Different peptides do different jobs,” says Melanie Palm, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego, CA. Some instruct skin to churn out more collagen, others dictate signaling between cells, and certain peptides are in charge of delivering other compounds and nutrients to skin. Therefore they can offer unique results: Some help with firming and smoothing, while others boost hydration.

But just as peptides aren’t created equal, their benefits are similarly variable. “Saying ‘peptides work’ is like saying ‘vitamins work’,” says Dr. Palm. “Some have stronger data than others, and some have been studied much more extensively.” With that in mind, scroll ahead for a breakdown of the most common types and how they may benefit skin. One note: These don’t include enzyme-inhibiting peptides, which are designed to slow down processes that contribute to collagen breakdown or pigmentation. That’s because “these are less commonly used and discussed in topical skincare,” says Dr. Palm.

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Best for Collagen Stimulation: Signal Peptides

Among the most common peptides in skincare are signal peptides. “These essentially tell the skin to make more collagen and other structural proteins that help keep skin looking firm and resilient,” says Dr. Palm. For instance, Matrixyl 3000 stimulates collagen and elastin production, to reduce fine lines and improve skin elasticity.

They’re the baseline in Alastin’s Restorative Skin Complex, which Dr. Palm calls a staple in her routine, particularly following procedures like lasers and microneedling. “I’ve seen it perform well both in everyday skin-care routines and around cosmetic procedures,” she says. “Patients often notice improvements in skin texture and overall skin quality over time.”

But signal peptides aren’t simply a matter of collagen. Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid Activating Serum is infused with five unique signal peptides, which encourage skin to produce more ceramides, thus supporting a healthy skin barrier.