From a contemporary, scientific perspective, the wine Romans drank is usually seen as an inconsistent, poorly made and totally disagreeable beverage.
It’s alleged that Roman winemakers needed to masks their merchandise’ flaws by including spices, herbs and different elements to the freshly pressed grape juice, which is named should.
Nevertheless, our analysis has proven this will not have been the case: a current examine of earthenware vessels utilized in wine fermentation – each historical and up to date – has challenged conventional views on the style and high quality of Roman wine, a few of which can even have rivalled the advantageous wines of as we speak.
Lots of the longstanding misconceptions surrounding Roman wine come from a scarcity of perception into one of the vital attribute options of Roman winemaking: fermentation in clay jars or dolia.
Big wine cellars full of a whole bunch of those vessels have been discovered everywhere in the Roman world, however till we started our examine nobody had regarded carefully at their function in historical wine manufacturing.
In our analysis, we in contrast Roman dolia with conventional Georgian manufacturing vessels, referred to as qvevri, that are nonetheless in use as we speak.
This conventional course of was given protected standing by UNESCO in 2013, and the similarities between Georgian and Roman winemaking procedures, together with archaeology and historical texts, level to wines with comparable tastes and aromas. The outcomes of our examine had been revealed in January 2024 within the journal Antiquity.
Porous eggs buried within the floor
In contrast to the metallic or concrete containers utilized in fashionable winemaking, clay jars are porous, which means the wine is uncovered to air throughout fermentation.
This contact, nevertheless, is restricted by coating the inside of the vessels with an impermeable substance. The Romans used pitch from pine resin, whereas these days, in Georgia, impartial beeswax is utilized. This managed air contact makes for nice wines, usually with grassy, nutty and dried fruit flavours.
The form of the vessel can be vital. Its rounded, egg-like type causes the fermenting should to maneuver round, which in flip results in extra balanced and wealthy wines. On the identical time, its slender base prevents grape solids that sink to the underside from having an excessive amount of contact with the maturing wine, conserving harsh and ugly flavours from showing.
By burying the vessels within the floor, winemakers can management temperature and supply a secure setting for wine to ferment and mature throughout its many months contained in the jars.
Temperatures in fashionable qvevri generally vary from 13° C to twenty-eight°C. That is supreme for malolactic fermentation, which turns sharp malic acids into softer lactic acids, typically giving as we speak’s white wines macerated in clay jars caramel and nutty tones.
Macerated wines
Trendy wine is usually grouped into whites, roses and reds. To provide these kinds, whites get little or no contact with the grape skins, whereas roses get simply sufficient to obtain a gentle pinkish color. Longer macerations are reserved for reds.
In clay jar winemaking, nevertheless, white wines often bear lengthy macerations with the grape solids (skins, seeds, and so forth). This offers lovely darkish yellow, amber colored wines, as we speak generally generally known as “orange wines”. This wine – more and more widespread as we speak – is just like descriptions of a few of the most prized wines in antiquity.
Protecting yeast: the miracle of flor
Buried clay jars encourage the formation of yeasts on the floor of the fermenting should. Many of those are what we name “flor” yeasts, a thick white foam layer that protects the wine from contact with the air. Historical Greek and Roman texts are full of descriptions of such floor yeasts in wines.
Flor produces a number of chemical compounds, together with sotolon, which supplies wine a spicy style. It additionally offers aromas of toasted bread, apples, roasted nuts and curry. It is a sensory profile fairly comparable with the herb fenugreek, which the Romans typically added to grape should to strengthen this fascinating flavour.
Roman wines revisited
Evidently, the Romans had been effectively conscious of many alternative strategies to grasp and alter the qualities of their wines. By various the dimensions, form and the place of dolia, Roman winemakers had been in a position to have nice management over the tip product, as Georgian winemakers do as we speak.
Our analysis emphasises the worth of evaluating historical and fashionable wine manufacturing strategies. It not solely debunks the alleged amateurish nature of Roman winemaking, nevertheless it additionally uncovers widespread traits in millennia-old winemaking strategies.
In some elements of Europe as we speak, together with France and Italy, fashionable winemakers are reviving these historical strategies to supply “new” clay jar wines. Whereas such wines are sometimes mistakenly termed “amphora wines” (amphorae had been two-handled earthenware vessels used to move wines and different liquids, not retailer them) they present the robustness of clay jar winemaking, and the cyclical nature of wine historical past.



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