Yirantian Guo turned her fall 2024 showspace right into a courtroom. Friends sat on picket benches and had positioned leather-bound briefings on every seat. If The Good Spouse occurred throughout Trend Week, Guo’s present was precisely what that may appear to be.
However Guo’s inspiration was not a fabricated character or a lady who exists solely inside the confines of primetime tv (or a streaming platform and a Sunday afternoon binge). “It’s in regards to the working girl,” Guo stated backstage after the present, “it’s what she wears each day and what she feels snug in.” Working example, a media govt sitting just a few seats over in a full look from the gathering couldn’t assist however exclaim take care of look: “That is for me! It’s what I put on!”
Guo is a staple at Shanghai Trend Week; she’s been part of the the Labelhood schedule from the very starting of her showcase, which can also be when she launched Yirantian after she graduated from the London Faculty of Trend in 2014 and returned to Shanghai. Yirantian, as Guo describes it, is about dressing “the city girl expressing a way of energy with non-aggressive sexiness.”
At one level in its lengthy and storied historical past, Shanghai turned generally known as “the Paris of the East,” a nickname that nodded at its penchant for decadence and glitz. Whereas the town has since outgrown the moniker to rise as a style capital in its personal proper, this concept of sophistication and glamour nonetheless permeates a lot of its inhabitants—significantly these within the higher echelons. Guo leans into this explicit pocket of Shanghainese fashion and explores its nuances, approaching sensuality via the town’s explicit, and oftentimes mature, sartorial language.
Guo reduce her tailoring sharp and her skirts brief, carving vertiginously plunging necklines in her shirting and night sheaths to distinction enjoyable knit cummerbunds and playful floating shirt collars; each of which delicately subverted the masculine energy uniform. She draped suitings into tailor-made tube tops and leather-trimmed capelets, and normal funky trousers and high coats out of shaggy colorblocked shearlings. Guo is usually at her greatest when she takes the modern and pushes it into new, kooky territories. That is the place her proposal for the working wardrobe took essentially the most compelling form this season, the place she dominated in favor of a lady whose sensuality is rooted in intrigue quite than downright sexiness.
