It’s not usually that British manufacturers breakthrough in America — however British accessible luxurious label Me+Em is hoping to defy the chances.

For a few years, the London-based direct-to-consumer label based in 2009 operated under-the-radar. It offered accessible luxurious items notably in style amongst girls of their 30s to 60s in search of sensible, versatile and trendy wardrobe staples corresponding to £200 ($254) wide-leg trousers, £250 cashmere knits and easy-to-layer tops. The Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton, and Nicole Kidman have been amongst Me+Em’s early followers.

However in recent times, the model hit an inflection level, reaching profitability in 2019 earlier than experiencing explosive development. Revenues final 12 months reached £80 million, up from £46 million the 12 months earlier and a greater than four-fold improve on pre-pandemic ranges. The model is on monitor to surpass £100 million mark this 12 months, the corporate stated.

When digital advertising and marketing prices briefly fell through the pandemic, Me+Em elevated its funding, offering a lift. However Me+Em additionally benefited from a shift in dynamics over the pandemic, which noticed its buyer base develop quickly.

Neighbourhood shops — of which Me+Em has a handful throughout London — benefitted as buyers working from house stayed native. And whereas the period of carrying sweatpants 24/7 got here to an finish when lockdowns lifted, buyers more and more sought out clothes options that have been sensible sufficient for the return to the workplace however nonetheless supplied the consolation and practicality they’d develop into accustomed to throughout quarantine. It was a candy spot Me+Em had already finely honed, with its “trend lego” strategy to outfit constructing.

“We offer options for busy girls. She could possibly be busy working, she could possibly be a busy mom, she could possibly be busy socialising, she could possibly be a busy traveller — or a mixture of all 4,” stated founder Clare Hornby. “It’s actually serious about truly residing in garments, in addition to wanting good in them.”

Now, because the model works to maintain up the pacey momentum it’s skilled because the pandemic, Hornby and her crew are focusing on US enlargement, seeking to leverage its rising American buyer base. To take action, Me+Em might want to discover a solution to translate the components that works so nicely in its house market to an viewers that’s bigger, extra various and already has loads of trend labels to select from.

Perform Meets Vogue

Along with her then-business accomplice Emma Howarth (who left the corporate in 2012), Hornby, a former promoting govt launched Me+Em 14 years in the past with a quality-price ratio because the model’s core precept, she stated. Hornby noticed a “gaping gap” within the British trend marketplace for designer-quality wares at a up to date worth level, choosing a digital-led, direct-to-consumer enterprise mannequin to ship on the proposition.

A look from ME+EM's August catalogue.

A glance from ME+EM’s August catalogue. (Me+Em)

As a substitute of seasonal collections, the model produced month-to-month drops that catered to the fast wants of buyers at any given time of 12 months, selling the newest strains with a bodily catalogue-style lookbook that’s nonetheless mailed out to clients at present.

At Me+Em, the end-use of the garment is simply as essential as the way it appears to be like, Hornby stated. Necklines or cuffs should be simply adjustable, whereas tailor-made trousers or jackets could have smocking on the again in order that they’re extra comfy to put on and simple to maneuver round in. Attire and tops might need zips on the neckline slightly than buttons, so these with bigger busts can select their break level simply. As Hornby places it, all merchandise should comply with the three Fs: every thing must be “flattering,” “purposeful” and, from a method perspective, have “endlessly attraction.”

“We put a number of science into what we make, and actually take into consideration how girls wish to put on issues,” she stated, giving an instance: “If you wish to do an extended cut-off [sleeve], you’ve obtained to have a mechanism for it. Since you need it to look lovely and {photograph} amazingly and in a very cool means. However you additionally have to, in some unspecified time in the future, do the washing up. Or eat some soup.”

It sounds easy, however few manufacturers are capable of work in these types of styling hacks successfully, stated Charlotte Cowles, a 38-year-old freelance author residing in Brooklyn, New York, who has been a Me+Em shopper since spring 2021, drawn to gadgets like a sweater with a detachable collar that may be worn as a turtleneck or a crewneck.

“I’m a working mother, and I reside in New York Metropolis, I’m transferring lots,” she stated. “It takes some actual craftsmanship to make issues that really operate nicely.”

Hornby and Howarth initially self-financed the enterprise earlier than the corporate went on to safe enterprise capital, elevating £1.5 million from Venrex Funding Administration, Pembroke VTC and Sir Charles Dunstone in 2016, and a further £900,000 from a crowdfunding marketing campaign in 2017. Its devoted fan base impressed Highland Europe, the personal fairness agency that purchased out Pembroke final 12 months.

“What you possibly can not often see in a client enterprise is the shopper cohorts bettering over time,” stated Highland principal Helena Prokhorenko. “[At Me+Em], clients spend extra over time and are extra loyal; they stick round for longer. There’s a actual product market match.”

The overwhelming majority of gross sales are pushed by e-commerce, with its bodily outposts, the primary of which opened shortly after the model launch, accounting for about 20 p.c of annual income. The seven stand-alone areas, that are all “extremely worthwhile,” in keeping with chief working officer Phil Mickler, are peppered across the London neighbourhoods the place their clients reside, together with Notting Hill, Chelsea and Marylebone. (The model additionally operates concessions in Selfridges and Harrods.) Its retail shops and bodily catalogues are essential advertising and marketing instruments, stated Mickler.

“It provides us a little bit of diversification by way of the advertising and marketing pitch, so we’re not overly reliant, like some companies are, on Meta merchandise,” he stated. “It’s a little bit of an antidote to the Instagram three-second consideration span.”

Heading Stateside

A look from ME+EM's August catalogue.

A glance from ME+EM’s August catalogue. (Me+Em)

Now, the model is betting the identical set-up will translate stateside. It plans to open two shops in New York earlier than the tip of the 12 months in Manhattan’s SoHo and Higher East Facet neighbourhoods, earlier than including a further three to 4 shops subsequent 12 months. Ultimately, the plan is to work in the direction of a community of about 15 areas, primarily throughout New York and California.

Making a splash within the US gained’t be straightforward, notably with none wholesale assist. The American market is its personal fiercely aggressive ecosystem, and it may be extraordinarily costly for startups to crack, as important funding is required to drive model consciousness. The sheer measurement of the market makes it logistically tough, whereas American client tastes don’t all the time align with what works within the UK.

Over the previous few many years, British chains from The Physique Store to Laura Ashley to Topshop have struggled to duplicate their UK success within the US market. Since Asos outlined a giant US enlargement technique in 2021, the retailer has didn’t recruit new buyers, with the variety of energetic clients at present flat in contrast with two years in the past.

Hornby, who has no plans to enter into wholesale anytime quickly, is reassured by the truth that the US was already Me+Em’s fastest-growing market with none funding in PR or shops — though the model has now been working with some native influencers and run some TV adverts lately to drum up pleasure.

Plus, the product interprets nicely, Hornby stated, which is encouraging: “The identical pricing high quality hole exists there,” she stated. “We’re actually fortunate in {that a} greatest vendor within the UK is a best-seller in America.”

Amongst current US clients, the model’s push into the market will doubtless be very welcome.

“I’m excited that they’re coming to the US,” stated Cowles. “In the event that they did have a retailer right here, I’d undoubtedly go.”

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