Samajwadi Occasion (SP) Chief Akhilesh Yadav, contesting the 2024 Lok Sabha Polls from Kannauj, has promised to convey again the misplaced glory to India’s fragrance capital. The perfumers of Kannauj scent ‘attar politics’ within the 2024 Lok Sabha Polls. Of the various, some mentioned that Kannauj is paying the worth for being an SP bastion, some blamed the BJP authorities for step motherly therapy and for imposing heavy GST on the bottom oils whereas some praised the ruling Yogi Adityanath authorities within the state for restoring regulation and order state of affairs in UP and for taming down the hooligans.
On Safdarganj street, Kannauj’s Bada Bazar, a hub of perfumers, was abuzz with actions on Thursday night–the day when Akhilesh Yadav filed his nomination papers as SP Candidate from Kannauj Lok Sabha seat. Regardless of the candy fruity scent of attar of various varieties that was within the air, it was the scent of ‘attar politics’, which dominated the roost right here. “The sorry state of Kannauj, the fragrance capital of India, is seen to all. Nothing has been achieved for the perfumers of Kannauj ever for the reason that BJP authorities has come to energy. I feel Kannauj is paying the worth for being tagged as SP’s bastion,” a perfumer, who owns a store on the Bada Bazar, mentioned.
Whereas leveling expenses in opposition to the ruling BJP Authorities for the step motherly therapy, one other perfumer lamented the impression of assorted elements on their commerce. “Not like the earlier SP authorities which made rose water and different base oils tax free, the BJP authorities imposed 18 % GST on base oil, stringent rules on sandalwood commerce, which have left a extreme dent on the revenue of the perfumers,” one other perfumer identified.
Apart from, additionally they identified inflation as one other ‘spoiler’ for Kannauj’s attar business, stating that the hovering diesel costs doubled the prices of uncooked supplies like DOP, HLP, and DEP. Regardless of these challenges, they wrestle to extend ultimate product costs attributable to present excessive charges. Extraction ratios reveal the luxurious nature of their merchandise; 5 grams of ‘rooh’ from 40 kg of roses fetches Rs 9 lakh per kg, whereas it takes 80 kg of vetiver for 50 grams of ‘rooh’ (the kind of condensed vapour). The procurement of musk, derived from the musk deer’s navel, is additional sophisticated by searching bans, resulting in reliance on authorities auctions the place it instructions a staggering Rs 42 lakh per kg. Such intricacies underline the complexities and prices inherent of their business.
Nevertheless, a few of the perfumers from the SP’s bastion hailed BJP for the strict regulation and order state of affairs and mentioned that the Yogi Authorities has smoothened up the enterprise operations. “Although it’s a indisputable fact that the SP Authorities did lots for the perfumers of Kannauj, however Yogi authorities has tamed down the hooligans which was a lot wanted in UP. The truth is, the Yogi authorities, by introducing GST, has streamlined the enterprise operations,” one other perfumer identified.
Kannauj’s ‘itr’ business, valued at over Rs 1,200 crore, engages round 80 % of the district’s populace. Regardless of its vital contribution to the native economic system, the business confronts challenges, mainly its reliance on pure components. The perfumers right here say that because of the fierce competitors from cheaper artificial perfumes, the business has witnessed a shift in direction of aromatherapy merchandise like important oils, shampoos, and soaps. Furthermore, the gutkha/paan masala business, a serious client, now, predominantly synthesizes scents however seeks pure merchandise for flavour and texture. This transition displays a broader development in direction of artificial options, posing a dilemma for conventional ‘itr’ producers.
Whereas highlighting the historical past of Kannauj’s scent business, Rishi Mehrotra, who claims to be one among the many oldest perfumers of Kannauj and is the ninth technology in perfumery enterprise, mentioned the custom of ‘itr’ manufacturing within the district dates again to the reign of Harshavardhana within the seventh century AD, with the Mughal period considerably enhancing its growth. Legend credit Asmat Begum, mom of Mughal queen Noor Jahan, for locating rose oil extraction after observing petals leaving an oily residue in tub water. Emperor Jehangir additionally famous her expertise in extracting rose attar.
“The city employs eco-friendly strategies, notably the ‘degh bhapka’ method, eschewing electrical energy and heavy equipment. This course of entails boiling flower petals in copper pots, sealed with clay to entice aromatic vapors. The vapors then move by way of a funnel into one other container containing water and base oil. This base oil, devoid of scent, absorbs the condensed liquid, preserving the perfume. Extra components like saffron, musk, oud, or camphor are added for numerous aromas, upholding the craft’s wealthy heritage and environmental consciousness,” mentioned Mehrotra whereas explaining the attar extraction course of. He mentioned that Kannauj’s attar or itr is wealthy, with none dilution. Not like alcohol-based perfumes, the perfume is heavier however quieter, and lasts longer.
Although the UP Authorities has rolled out a number of schemes to spice up the business, the perfumers say that there’s a lot extra to be achieved. One such scheme is ODOP (one district, one product). This was began with the view to creating small-scale business employees ‘atma nirbhar’ (self-reliant). It was tasked with aiding medium, small and micro enterprises in promoting their merchandise on-line on a bigger scale. However the scheme doesn’t appear to be reaching the precise beneficiaries, they added.
In 2014, the then chief minister Akhilesh Yadav had introduced a typical facility perfume park to spice up the perfume business of Kannauj. In 2015, Yadav had led a delegation to Grasse (France), identified for its perfumes, to discover the potential of a tie-up and strengthen the ‘attar’ business of Kannauj. After Yadav’s go to to France, the state authorities had said that the park can be developed on 400-acre land and 300-acre ‘gram sabha’ land was already obtainable for the mission there. On April 12, 2016, he additionally laid the muse. Although the UP Authorities claimed that the primary part of the mission has been accomplished, the perfumers right here say it’s but to convey change to Kannauj’s fading scent business.
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